Split - Mostar [14-06-08]

I’m currently sitting by a stream at the Crooked Bridge writing this journal entry. It’s really nice for the cold breeze is caressing my face, the sun is setting in the greyish, pale yellowish sky, the stream rushing to its resting point and there’s no one in sight. [right after I finished writing this paragraph, a big group of tourists emerged out of nowhere and surrounded me… bummer]

A random pic of a fish market at Split in the morning of my departure.


Today marks the end of my 9-day Rhapsody Classic Trek and I will definitely miss the many people that I’ve met on the trip. After a brief farewell to Damien outside the pastry shop, Tammy and I walked to Split Hostel to meet our new Balkan Trek group and guide. Our guide is a Bosnian and his name is Mustafa. Its really interesting to know that he is a Muslim but he kind of drink and smoke. A liberal Muslim I supposed. There are 6 members in our new group, 4 girls and 2 guys excluding the guide. Tiffany and Jeremy (the loving couple), Tammy, Sallie, Esther and me. I do kind of like a small group for its more close-knitted and the administration will definitely be faster and easier than a 30-man group.

Mustafa drove us in a van crossing the Croatian coasts towards Mostar, our first destination. The view along the way was indeed majestic and a sight to behold.
On my left were mountain ridges and on my right was the sea. There was no flat land between the ridge and the sea, the steep slope runs directly into the sea. The sea was crystal clear blue sparkling and dancing under the morning sun. Stunning geographical features.

We passed by Biokovo Nature Reserve which happened to be another stunning place. From prior secondary research, Biokovo Nature Reserve is a haven for hiking enthusiast due to its mountainous terrain. Ridges after ridges of scrubland and interesting wildlife, it’s indeed a sight to behold. The road started to get really winding and we were really hanging on to anything we can find.

Travelling towards Bosnia and Hercegovina (pretty near to the border)
A sneak shot of the border control
After crossing the border into Bosnia and Hercegovina, we alighted at this place (which I forgot the name) to look at a waterfall. Along the way before arriving at this scenic spot, it seemed that Hercegovina is pretty different from the rest of the Europe that I’ve seen so far. It’s really kampong-ish, a far cry from the ‘civility-façade’ that most European countries have.

We finally arrived at Mostar, and checked into a really nice hotel. Probably I should give a rough background of Mostar. Mostar is a city and municipality in Bosnia and Hercegovina. It is named after its Old Bridge (Stari Most). Between 1992 and 1993, after Bosnia and Hercegovina declared independence from Yugoslavia, the town was subjected to an 18 month siege. The Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA) first bombed Mostar on April 3, 1992 and subsequently the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Hercegovina and the Croatian Defence Council fought back and forced the JNA out of Mostar. However, the JNA responded with shelling at that time.

After the Serbs forces were driven out from Mostar, the Croatian Defence Council (HVO) attacked the Bosniaks to capture the whole city for themselves. The Croats took over the west side of the city and expelled thousands of Bosniaks from the west side into the east side of the city while at the same time reducing much of the east side of Mostar to rubble. The HVO forces engaged in a mass execution, ethnic cleansing and rape on the Bosniak people of the West Mostar resulting in thousands of people injured and killed. The Stari Most bridge was also destroyed during that period.

The Mostar in front of me was simply beautiful with emerald green water criss-crossing the town with many beautiful bridges. The surrounding was quiet with only the rushing sound of water, the locals were extremely friendly and approachable. I adore the place tremendous despite knowing the bloody and sad past that the place once held.

Listening to Mustafa explaining to us the history of the area

A walk in the old town

Emerald green river

Sitting on Stari Most
Stari Most

We saw a guy (diver) jump off the Stari Most into the water. Apparently it's a tourist gimmick to collect 50 convertible mark before one of the divers will jump off the bridge. My female travelmates couldn't stop oogling at that topless guy.
Apparently Rose lied... she didn't jump with him
I had mixed grill for lunch which was so so delicious. I think the photo speaks louder than words.
A mosque compound

Notice the big cross on the hill?
Scenes of bullet-holed, grenade-ripped buildings were common sight in the town. There were still lots of them to serve as reminder of the war close to a decade ago.

We visited a Muslim cemetery that housed secondary mass graves of the victims and Bosniak soldiers during the war. Why did i use the term 'secondary'? Apparently, the mass graves were dug out and redug out as part of the enemy's ploy to hide evidences. Therefore, the remains had been moved a couple of times.
A poster of the brave Bosniak soldiers who gave up their lives during the war
The 'mass graves'
A beautiful shot of Mostar - yet its history has put so much solemn thoughts in my mind

The eventide
In the night, we headed down to a tavern to chill out and have some snacks.
Jeremy and I

Tamy and Mustafa (he's always so funny)
And in the night, we went to chill out at this really cool looking cave bar. And i mean it's really a cave. The ambience was just fantastic. But i left early for i was pretty tired... and caught a glimpse of a really funny match between Turkey and Czech.